LESSER SUNDA - “EAST AND WEST NUSA TENGGARA ISLANDS”
The History
Considering its name, actually East Nusa Tenggara archipelago is believed to have been the center of industrial trade and exchange two thousand years ago when Timor island functioned as the source for the original stock of sandalwood trees established in India (or even in China) and there after developed as an important commercial tree. The trees grow in some islands (mostly in Timor Island now and used to be in Sumba) and the quality is still judged superlative.

Now the product is not only used for handicraft, but is also manufactured into sandalwood oil for export commodity for the raw material of perfumes. Centuries ago, ships from all over the world visited these islands in search of spices and sandalwood. The ancient Chinese travel chronicle Hsing Cha Sheng Can mentions that from the 6th to the 9th AD many ships from the Chinese mainland came here to barter ceramics, yarns, and silks for sandalwood. Can Yu Kua wrote in the Chu Fan Shih in 1225, that Timor Island had links with Java as far as the trade of sandalwood was concerned. The evidence of those old trade links with Java is found in Lendo Maja Dance, in Sabu. The evidence of early trading with China provide by the antique Chinese ceramics found in this area.

Pilliot Lamster believes that China had engaged in the sandalwood trade since the early period of Christian era. O. W. Walters similarly believe that China had connections with Timor in the first century of the Christian era. The merchant from India also come to these island to buy sandalwood, bringing horses which they bought in Arabia to be sold to Sumba people. That is ostensibly the reason why there are so many horses in Sumba The Europeans came to East Nusa Tenggara and bought sandalwood oil to treat wound.

In 1520, a Portuguese flotilla led by Alfonso de Abreu and serrao, sailed to Ternate, intending to defeat the Sultan of Ternate and take over his sphere of influence, which stretched from the southern Philippines to Sangihe Talaud, Maluku and Solor Island.
Losing their orientation, they arrived at Solor. They had failed destination, but had discovered East Nusa Tenggara, the source of sandalwood. They set up a trading post in Lamakera, on Solor Island, as a kind transit harbor between Maluku and Malacca.
In 1566, the Portuguese set up a trading post, know as fort Hendricus, where sandalwood was accumulated. During Portuguese period, many names were changed. Nusa Nipa became Flores, and Tanah Wutun, or Tanjung, was renamed Cabo da Flores. Nusa Wuo was changed into Sumba, and Nusa Eda into Rote or Roti, which was presumably the result of a misunderstanding involving a name Rote. Nusa Timu became Tmor. In addition, the Portuguese did their best to convert the people to Roman Catholicism as present on Portuguese ship. By 1597, thousands of people on these islands had been converted to Christianity.

The little town of Kupang knows among students of maritime history. At around the end of the 1 8th century, Kupang was visited by a sloop of the British Ship HMS "Bounty" skippered by Captain Thigh, who has braved the Pacific Ocean after the infamous mutiny. On his arrival at Kupang, Captain Bligh received help of the Dutch, who provided him with a ship to return to England.

In 1592, and inhabitant of Larantuka, of Portuguese origin, whose mother had been ill-treated, asked the Dutch for help to fight the Portuguese. The clutch attacked Fort Hendricus and defeated the Portuguese. The Dutch arrived at East Nusa Tenggara for the first time in the 17th century. In 1613, Apollonius Scotte led a war expedition to

East Nusa Tenggara to fight the Portuguese. War broke out and Solor fell to the Dutch in 1653. Through further victory, the Dutch consolidated their position in Kupang in 1657. Fort Hendricus became the headquarters of Dutch East India Company. Like the Portuguese before them, the Dutch brought their own Lutheran Ministers to the island and became the information center in East Nusa Tenggara.

After that the people live in surroundings of Kupang had converted from Catholicism to Protestantism. The Protestant center was move to Kupang. Meanwhile, the Portuguese moved the seat of their authority to Rote and Sawu islands. More over, many of the other islands were being subjugated and put under Portuguese control. In May to June 1642, the Portuguese were sending their best troops from Larantuka to attack Timor Island. The Portuguese commander; Francisco Fernandez, Ordered his men to kill the entire king in the conquered areas.

In 1739, a new power group, called the black Portuguese or Tropaas, emerged in Timor. Until the middle of the 19th century, it clashes between the areas. The situation continued until 1854, when the Treaty of Timor was signed between the Dutch and Portuguese, dividing Timor into half west to be ruled by the Dutch, and an east by the Portuguese. Larantuka and surrounding areas were ceded to the Dutch, whereas the barren territory of Oekusi was relinquished to the Portuguese.

After Indonesia's independence, it was in the beginning a part of the Provinces of Lesser Sunda Islands, and changed its name to Nusa Tenggara Province not long after that, with the capital in Singaraja, Bali. In 1958 the province of Nusa Tenggara was divided into three provinces; Bali, West Nusa Tenggara, and East

East Nusa Tenggara Islands have been shaped by the power and force of an enormous chain of mountains and volcanoes, which begins from the North of Sumatra and stretches east across Java. The province consists of over 550 islands, but is dominated by the three main islands of Flores, Sumba, and Timor. Occupying a unique position at the junction of Australian and Asian submarine ridges marked by the Wallace Line, it is one the world's most dynamic and exotic marine environments with nearly every species of coral and tropical fish represented. The arid landscape of eastern and southeastern Nusa Tenggara is the result of hot, dry winds blasting in from the Australian continent. In fact, in many coastal areas not a drop of rain falls during most of the year.

Flores is a Portuguese name, which means 'flower' and ideally describes the beauty to be found here. This long island between Sumbawa and Timor is crowded with volcanoes and mountains dividing it into several distinct regions with individual languages and traditions. Predominantly Catholic and heavily influenced by the Portuguese, there are many examples of a strong European cultural heritage like eastern procession held in Larantuka, and the royal regalia of the former king in Maumere.

Formerly known as the Sandalwood Island, Sumba is now famous for its horses and an excellent style of ikat cloth. Spirits, both ancestral and natural are worshipped. Although some exist in East Sumba, it is in West Sumba that there are a number of enormous megalithic tombs and traditional thatched and peaked huts raised on stilts. It is here where incredible rituals take place, such as 'Pasola' where hundreds of horsemen fling spreads at each other in an annual ritual. Many traditional ceremonies, all with a component paying homage to the spirits, take place from July to October including the traditional houses and burials when sometimes hundreds of pigs, water buffaloes, horses, and dogs are scarified. Other ceremonies include 'Pajura' or traditional boxing, festivals for the Lunar New Year in October and November, horse races and ritual dances.

Art and Culture:
East Nusa Tenggara is rich in arts and culture. Everywhere we go to East Nusa Tenggara we will notice the difference. The differences can be in languages (dialects), motif of customs (sarongs), the styles or the architectures of arts, houses and so on. Although the vast majority of Flores in Catholic, many people still follow their old ways, by living in traditional villages and placing food offerings on megalithic stones, and appease their ancestors. In the mountains around Bajawa, the Ngada people still follow the laws laid down by their ancestors. The Ngadanese are divided into set clans that have head chiefs and elders who decide of matters such as land rights, funerals, marriages and other ceremonies.

At Ngadanese rituals three objects form a ceremonial unit:
* PEO, a single megalithic stone, is used for communication with the ancestors. These are erected in the center of the village and had not allowed to be moved.
* NGADU, an umbrella shaped structure with a thatched roof, is used by the mate clan elders during ceremonial offerings.
* BHAGA, a small hut with carvings, used by female clan elder when asking for the ancestors' protection over the newborn children.
Sacred myths that tell the origin of the several Sumbanese clan ancestors, is called Marapu. Mention a ladder from heaven to India then a long journey via Java to Flores. There is a stone bridge connected to Sumba Island. There the Highest Being created the Marapu, in heaven. This Creator cannot be seen or named, but it is known as "Great Mother or Great Father.
This aspect of male and female dualism is still enforcing throughout the social structure and system of gift exchange. This creator gave Marapu the right to govern the Sumbanese; therefore Marapu is the link with the creator.

Sumbanese clans were formerly divided into several independent kingdoms, each with their own clan Marapu, mostly at war with each other and not recognizing a central authority. Since the authority was Marapu, each clan needed its own fortified ceremonial center that also functioned as a village. Every house within the village has its own responsibility, such as deciding over Ceremonies, wars, and harvest. However, only one house, the uma, claims direct decent from a central founder, who first obtained the rights by Marapu, to settle and use the land. The clan houses, with their megalithic tombs, face toward a village square, where the animals' offerings are carried out. Megalithic take other forms, such as offering altars and praying houses. Sacred stones, used as a link between Marapu and the Sumbanese can be found inside and outside the village.

A traditional Sumbanese house is though of as representing a human being; the thatched peaked roof is called "the hair and the head, the four main pillars that stand on the ground and reach the peak are known as "the legs". These houses are social units and also serve as clan temples. The verandah function as the place where the guests are received and their betel nut is exchanged. Betel nut exchanged is an important customs and when offered it represents a western handshake, it is an insult to refuse the offer, although it is not necessary to eat it. The houses are also an important ceremonial center for funerals. Here the corpses are kept, prepared and mourned for a while the burials. Since death is the only way to join Marapu, the funeral is the most important and extravagant ceremony. Megalithic tombs with elaborate carvings symbolized the status of the person who will be erected. A great tomb might weight 30 tons; take 40 men two years to prepare and 1000 men to drag it from the quarry to its site.

The megalithic stones represent the first stone given by the creator to Marapu as compass to find Sumba from India. Since the Sumbanese believe the after world is a mirror of this world, status and wealth must be shown. Therefore his possessions will follow him to the grave and his animals will be sacrificed to honor him. Marriage is another significant ceremony filled with dancing, singing, entertainment and gift exchanged. A favorable marriage will give a rise in political or social status. Agricultural ceremonies and festivals are parts of the yearly traditional calendar. Pasola is one such festival in which colorful, spear throwing men on horseback, stage a mock battle between two teams. This is held to welcome the sea-worms, which foretell the coming harvest. It is held after the full moon in February and March.

The traditional house of Timor looks like a wooden parasol (UME) functioning as a living room and storage house. The village leader rules several houses from a village. This way of living is still available in the area around Mount Mutis, Soe, and Kefamenanu. Here the majority of Atoni people (one of the ethnic groups in Timor) still live traditionally. The Atoni people, according to regent, lived beside mountains that could talk and wander from valley to valley. The great rocks offered protection and guidance. The Atoni up until today will place offering at the foot of these sacred mountains, to ensure the continuing relationship. The Atoni live in behave shaped houses, where high conical roofs slope downward.

Belu people, originally from present day Malaysia, left their settlements in Mollucas, during the 1 4th century to conquer and establish an empire in Timor island. The word Belu, means friend used by Atoni, might explain the relative ease in which the Belunese established them selves. One of the unique features within the Belunese society is the woman's high status. She fully controls everyone, or more, of the four types of marriage she decides to be a part of. Her husband will leave his clan by moving to her house and all their children will follow her lineage.

Traditionally dances, such as Likurai, have always accompanied festivals and ceremonies. The Likurai was danced to welcome the clan warriors up on their return from a victorious battle. The women would be dancing, tapping their drums and swaying their bodies as they circled the battle trophies of heads. Today unmarried women, will dance the Likurai to press young bachelors of visitors on special occasion. The Belunese culture is till very evident around Betun on the east coast of Timor.

Geographically
East Nusa Tenggara is one of the four provinces in the Nusa Tenggara (Southeast Islands). Starting from Bali, West Nusa Tenggara, East Nusa Tenggara, and east Timor. It stretch is between 118° and 125° east longitude, and between 1 18° and 125°southern latitude lines, and between 8° and 12 ° southern latitude lines. The territory of East Nusa Tenggara Province comprises 566 islands. The three main islands are Flores, Sumba, and Timor from which come the term FLOBAMOR, which has been familiar as one of the names of East Nusa Tenggara.

Flores is the main volcanic island and has many unique and spectacular attractions, one of these is Mount Kelimutu with its lakes of distinct color variation, has become one of the fabled destinations travelers.

Sumba is the island famous for its arts, handicrafts, particularly the textile weaving, and cultural assets. The other name given to East Nusa Tenggara is "Nusa Cendana" the Sandalwood Island.

Geographically
Geologically, East Nusa Tenggara can be regarded as being divided into two zones: first, the volcanic inner curve formed by the islands Rinca, Komodo, Flores, Alor, Pantar, Adonara, Lembata and Solor, which have fertile soils and second, the out curve with limestone and rock formation, made up of the island Sumba, Sabu, Rote, Semau, and Timor.

Demography
The total number of NTT inhabitants in 2001 was 3,888.735 - 1,919.644 (49.36%) men and 1,969.091 (50.64%) women. The most populated is Manggarai regency (621,989 people) and Kupang city is the most densely populated (1,517.30 people per square kilometer).

Climate
Due to central highlands and their closeness to Australia, the seasons are irregular. Generally the islands are semi-arid, with a longer dry season lasting from March to November. The wet season lasts from December to March, but can be considerably shorter and small island of Savu. The average rainfall of this region is between 36 - 4,127 mm/year. The temperature is range from 20.3 C to 31.7 C.

Topography
East Nusa Tenggara is mountainous, and very steep slopes are everywhere besides some not too wide plateaus or uplands. The lowlands are a long the coastal areas only. Despite of the situation, most part of this region is not fertile, since the rainfall varies between 500 mm and 2000 mm a year.

East Nusa Tenggara (NTT) is includes 566 islands. In addition, there are 524 uninhabited islands. It covers an area of about 47,349.9 square kilometers, including 200,000 square kilometers of maritime territory. Roughly 57 percent of the territory is hilly, with cliffs. The lowlands lay generally around the beaches and river mouths.

Wide Area
The area of East Nusa Tenggara occupies an area of 49,879.98 square kilometers, and has a population of more than 3,500.000. It is divided into 12 regencies and one municipality. Kupang regency is the largest region (7,178.26 square kilometers) and the smallest region is Kupang city (160.34 km2).

Languages
There are a lot of languages spoken in East Nusa Tenggara coming from as many different which groups of the population. Bahasa Indonesia is the national language in Malay, written in Roman script and based in European orthography. In all tourist destination areas English is the number one foreign language fairly spoken and written.

KUPANG CITY
The provincial capital of East Nusa Tenggara in western Timor has proximately 522.944 inhabitants, making it the largest urban center in the province. It is the center of government, business, trade, and education. 'The only sandalwood oil factory in Indonesia is located in this town. The city is located in West Timor, at 10011'S 123035'E, and has a population of about 450,000.
As the capital of East Nusa Tenggara, the transport and administrative links from Kupang with isolated islands are extensive. The location was an important port and trading point during the Portuguese and Dutch colonial eras. There are ruins and remnant signs of the colonial presence in the city. The city was an important landing and refueling place for early long distance airplane flights between Europe and Australia in the early twentieth century. It was an important location during the conflict in East Timor, for the Indonesian military, as well as the militias. The camps around Kupang were also of significant impact on the city.

Kupang was the final destination of Captain William Bligh (actually he was a lieutenant in the British Royal Navy) who was set adrift in an open boat during the Mutiny on the Bounty.
The Mutiny on the Bounty (1789) took place about 30 nautical miles (56 km) from Tofua. Lt William Bligh navigated the overcrowded 23-foot (7 m) open launch on an epic 41-day voyage first to Tofua and then Kupang City is equipped only with a sextant and a pocket watch -- no charts or compass. He recorded the distance as 3,618 nautical miles (6710 km). He passed through the difficult Torres Strait along the way and landed on June 14. The only casualty of his voyage was a crewman named James Norton who was stoned to death by the natives of Tofua, the first island they tried to land on. First Mate Fletcher Christian who fell in love with a Tahitian native and eventually settled on Pitcairn Island South East of Tahiti, had led the Mutiny.

FLORES ISLAND
Flores, a long island located between Sumbawa and Timor, is strewn with volcanoes in a mountain chain dividing it into several regions with distinctive languages and traditions, scenic beauty, good beaches, and natural wonders. The name is Portuguese for "flower", as the Portuguese were the first Europeans to colonize East Nusa Tenggara.
Occupying a unique position at the junction of the Australian and Asian submarine ridges, between the two distinct fauna regions marked by the Wallace Line, here is one of the world's most dynamic marine environments with nearly every species of coral and tropical fish represented. Predominantly Catholic, there are several examples of its Portuguese cultural heritage like the Easter Procession held in Larantuka, and the royal regalia of the former king in Maumere.

Flores Island, 6,627 sq mi (17,164 sq km), of Indonesia, is one of the Lesser Sunda Islands. Flores is heavily wooded, rugged, and mountainous, rising to 7,872 ft (2,399 m). The inhabitants are predominantly Christian, mainly Roman Catholic; those in the west are chiefly Malayans, and those in the east are Papuans. Corn and coconuts are grown. Ende (1990 pop. 48,966) is the chief town and port.

Among the prehistoric inhabitants of the island were small-proportioned humans (classified as Homo floresiensis in 2004) that may have evolved from Homo erectus and lived on Flores as recently as 13,000 years ago. Some scientists, however, believe that remains are those of micro cephalic modern humans who also suffered from dwarfism. Much later under the rule of Sulawesi princes, Flores came under Dutch influence c.1618. The Dutch gradually gained control of the island, although Portugal held the eastern end until 1851 and the natives were not completely subjugated until 1907.

Flores is one of the Lesser Sunda Islands, an Island arc with an estimated area of 14,300-km_ extending east from Java island of Indonesia. The largest town is Maumere. Flores is located east of Sumbawa and Komodo and west of Lembata and Alor archipelago. To the southeast is Timor. To the south, across the Sumba strait, is Sumba and to the north, beyond Flores Sea, is Sulawesi.

Administration
Flores is part of the East Nusa Tenggara province. The island is split into five regencies (local government districts); from west to east these are: Manggarai, Ngada, Ende, Sikka and Flores Timur.

Geography
Flores has several active and dormant volcanoes, including Egon, Ilimuda, Leroboleng, and Lewotobi.

Flora and fauna
The west coast of Flores is one of the few places, aside from the island of Komodo itself, where the Komodo dragon can be found in the wild. The Flores giant rat is also endemic to the Island. In September 2004, at Liang Bua Cave in western Flores, Paleoanthropologist discovered skeletons of a previously unknown hominid species. Homo floresiensis, affectionately termed hobbits after the small characters in the Lord of the Rings, appear to be miniaturized versions of Homo erectus standing about one meter tall. They may have existed until as recently as 11.000 BC. Local reports of elf people, the Ebu Gogo, or the Orang Pendek of Sumatra, have caused speculation that Flores man may have survived into the historical period, or even to the present. The discovery has been published in the October 28, 2004, issue of Nature magazine. Flores was also a habitat of the extinct Stegodon dwarf elephant until approximately 18,000 years ago.
Culture
There are many languages spoken on the island of Flores, all of them belonging to the Austronesian family. In the centre of the island in the districts of Ngada and Ende there is what is variously called the Central Flores Dialect Chain or the Central Flores Linkage. Within this area there are slight lingistic differences in almost every village. At least six separate languages are identifiable. These are from west to east: Ngada, Nage, Keo, Ende, Lio and Palu'e, which is spoken on the island with the same name of the north coast of Flores. Locals would probably also add So'a and Bajawa to this list, which anthropologists have labeled dialects of Ngadha.

Portuguese traders and missionaries came to Flores in the 16th century, mainly to Larantuka and Sikka. Their influence is still discernible in Sikka's language and culture.

Flores is almost all Catholic and represents one of the "religious borders" created by the Catholic expansion in the Pacific and the spread of Islam from the west across Indonesia. In other places in Indonesia, such as in Maluku and Sulawesi, the divide is more rigid and has been the source of bloody sectarian clashes.

KELIMUTU NATIONAL PARK

Kelimutu three Crater colored Lakes
Of all incredible sights in Nusa Tenggara the colored lakes of Kelimutu are undoubtedly the most spectacular. The three lakes are set in deepcraters at an altitude of 1.690m asl and are near the summit of the Kelimutu volcano ( Keli means mountain and Mutu is crater / steam).
They have a habit of changing color and most recently the largest was light turquoise, the one next to it was dark brown and the third one was black.
No – one was managed to fully explain the cause of the colors or why they change, except to suppose that different minerals are dissolved in each lake. The moons cape effect of the craters gives the whole summit area an ethereal atmosphere that can be quite creepy when clouds blow ion after 8am .
There is a story among the locals that the souls of the dead go to these lakes: young people’s souls go to the warmth of Tiwu Nuwa Muri Koo Fai ( Turquose lake ), Olds people to the cold of Tiwu Ata Mbupu ( Brown lake ) , and those of thieves and murders to Tiwu Ata Polo ( Black lake ).
Kelimutu has attracted sightseers since Dutch times and today there is a paved road up to the lakes from Moni, 13,5km away at base of the mountain. There is a staircase up to the highest lookout, inspiration point, From where all three lakes are visible.
There is wonderfully spacious feeling up here and you can scramble around the perimeters of two of the lake craters for a bit of solitude. Take care though, as the Scree is loose and it is hell of along way down. Hope for a sunny day sunrise is stunning and the turquoise lake reaches it’s full brilliance in the sunlight. More fantastic if we visit at 6 o’clock in the morning.

KOMODO NATIONAL PARK

LOCATION :

Komodo National Park lies in the Wallacea Region of Indonesia, identified by WWF and Conservation International as a global conservation priority area. The Park is located between the islands of Sumbawa and Flores at the border of the Nusa Tenggara Timur (NTT) and Nusa Tenggara Barat (NTP) provinces. It includes three major islands, Komodo, Rinca and Padar, and numerous smaller islands together totaling 603 km2 of land. The total size of Komodo National Park is presently 1,817 km2. Proposed extensions of 25 km2 of land (Banta Island) and 479 km2 of marine waters would bring the total surface area up to 2,321 km2

HISTORY :

Komodo National Park was established in 1980 and was declared a World Heritage Site and a Man and Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1986. The park was initially established to conserve the unique Komodo dragon (Varanus komodoensis), first discovered by the scientific world in 1911 by J.K.H. Van Steyn. Since then conservation goals have expanded to protecting its entire biodiversity, both marine and terrestrial.

The majority of the people in and around the Park are fishermen originally from Bima (Sumbawa), Manggarai, South Flores, and South Sulawesi. Those from South Sulawesi are from the Suku Bajau or Bugis ethnic groups. The Suku Bajau were originally nomadic and moved from location to location in the region of Sulawesi, Nusa Tenggara and Maluku, to make their livelihoods. Descendents of the original people of Komodo, the Ata Modo, still live in Komodo, but there are no pure blood people left and their culture and language is slowly being integrated with the recent migrants.

Little is known of the early history of the Komodo islanders. They were subjects of the Sultanate of Bima, although the island’s remoteness from Bima meant its affairs were probably little troubled by the Sultanate other than by occasional demand for tribute.

DEMOGRAPHICS :

There are presently almost 4,000 inhabitants living within the park spread out over four settlements (Komodo, Rinca, Kerora, and Papagaran). All villages existed prior to 1980 before the area was declared a national park. In 1928 there were only 30 people living in Komodo Village, and approximately 250 people on Rinca Island in 1930. The population increased rapidly, and by 1999, there were 281 families numbering 1,169 people on Komodo, meaning that the local population had increased exponentially. Komodo Village has had the highest population increase of the villages within the Park, mostly due to migration by people from Sape, Manggarai, Madura, and South Sulawesi. The number of buildings in Kampung Komodo has increased rapidly from 30 houses in 1958, to 194 houses in 1994, and 270 houses in 2000. Papagaran village is similar in size, with 258 families totaling 1,078 people. As of 1999, Rinca’s population was 835, and Kerora's population was 185 people. The total population currently living in the Park is 3,267 people, while 16,816 people live in the area immediately surrounding the Park.

EDUCATION :

The average level of education in the villages of Komodo National Park is grade four of elementary school. There is an elementary school located in each of the villages, but new students are not recruited each year. On average, each village has four classes and four teachers. Most of the children from the small islands in the Kecamatan Komodo (Komodo, Rinca, Kerora, Papagaran, Mesa) do not finish elementary school. Less than 10% of those which do graduate from elementary school will continue to high school since the major economic opportunity (fishing) does not require further education. Children must be sent to Labuan Bajo to attend high school, but this is rarely done in fishermen’s families.

HEALTH :

Most of the villages located in and around the Park have few fresh water facilities available, if any, particularly during the dry season. Water quality declines during this time period and many people become ill. Malaria and diarrhea are rampant in the area. On Mesa island, with a population of around 1,500 people, there is no fresh water available. Fresh water is brought by boat in jerrycans from Labuan Bajo. Each family needs an average of Rp 100,000.- per month to buy fresh water (2000). Almost every village has a local medical facility with staff, and at least a paramedic. The quality of medical care facilities is low.

SOCIO-CULTURAL AND ANTHROPOLOGIC CONDITIONS :

Traditional Customs: Traditional communities in Komodo, Flores and Sumbawa have been subjected to outside influences and the influence of traditional customs is dwindling. Television, radio, and increased mobility have all played a part in accelerating the rate of change. There has been a steady influx of migrants into the area. At the moment nearly all villages consist of more than one ethnic group.

Religion: The majority of fishermen living in the villages in the vicinity of the Park are Muslims. Hajis have a strong influence in the dynamics of community development. Fishermen hailing from South Sulawesi (Bajau, Bugis) and Bima are mostly Moslems.

The community from Manggarai are mostly Christians. Anthropology and Language: There are several cultural sites within the Park, particularly on Komodo Island. These sites are not well documented, however, and there are many questions concerning the history of human inhabitance on the island. Outside the Park, in Warloka village on Flores, there is a Chinese trading post remnant of some interest. Archeological finds from this site have been looted in the recent past. Most communities in and around the Park can speak Bahasa Indonesia. Bajo language is the language used for daily communication in most communities.

TERRESTRIAL PHYSICAL ENVIRONMENT :

Topography: The topography is varied, with slopes from 0 – 80%. There is little flat ground, and that is generally located near the beach. The altitude varies from sea level to 735 m above sea level. The highest peak is Gunung Satalibo on Komodo Island.

Geology: The islands in Komodo National Park are volcanic in origin. The area is at the juncture of two continental plates: Sahul and Sunda. The friction of these two plates has led to large volcanic eruptions and caused the up-thrusting of coral reefs. Although there are no active volcanoes in the park, tremors from Gili Banta (last eruption 1957) and Gunung Sangeang Api (last eruption 1996) are common. West Komodo probably formed during the Jurasic era approximately 130 million years ago. East Komodo, Rinca, and Padar probably formed approximately 49 million years ago during the Eocene era.

Climate: Komodo National Park has little or no rainfall for approximately 8 months of the year, and is strongly impacted by monsoonal rains. High humidity levels year round are only found in the quasi-cloud forests on mountain tops and ridges. Temperatures generally range from 170C to 340C, with an average humidity level of 36%. From November through March the wind is from the west and causes large waves that hit the entire length of Komodo island’s west beach. From April through October the wind is dry and large waves hit the south beaches of Rinca and Komodo islands.

TERRESTRIAL ECOSYSTEMS :

The terrestrial ecosystems are strongly affected by the climate: a lengthy dry season with high temperatures and low rainfall, and seasonal monsoon rains. The Park is situated in a transition zone between Australian and Asian flora and fauna. Terrestrial ecosystems include open grass-woodland savanna, tropical deciduous (monsoon) forest, and quasi cloud forest.

Due to the dry climate, terrestrial plant species richness is relatively low. The majority of terrestrial species are xerophytic and have specific adaptations to help them obtain and retain water. Past fires have selected for species that are fire-adapted, such as some grass species and shrubs. Terrestrial plants found in Komodo National Park include grasses, shrubs, orchids, and trees. Important food tree species for the local fauna include Jatropha curkas, Zizyphus sp., Opuntia sp., Tamarindus indicus, Borassus flabellifer, Sterculia foetida, Ficus sp., Cicus sp., ‘Kedongdong hutan’ (Saruga floribunda), and ‘Kesambi’ (Schleichera oleosa).

TERRESTRIAL FAUNA :

The terrestrial fauna is of rather poor diversity in comparison to the marine fauna. The number of terrestrial animal species found in the Park is not high, but the area is important from a conservation perspective as some species are endemic.. Many of the mammals are Asiatic in origin (e.g., deer, pig, macaques, civet). Several of the reptiles and birds are Australian in origin. These include the orange-footed scrubfowl, the lesser sulpher-crested cockatoo and the nosy friarbird.

Reptiles: The most famous of Komodo National Park's reptiles is the Komodo Dragon (Varanus komodoensis). It is among the world's largest reptiles and can reach 3 meters or more in length and weigh over 70kg. Click: the komodo dragon

Other than the Komodo Dragon twelve terrestrial snake species are found on the island. including the cobra (Naja naja sputatrix), Russel’s pit viper (Vipera russeli), and the green tree vipers (Trimeresurus albolabris). Lizards include 9 skink species (Scinidae), geckos (Gekkonidae), limbless lizards (Dibamidae), and, of course, the monitor lizards (Varanidae). Frogs include the Asian Bullfrog (Kaloula baleata), Oreophyne jeffersoniana and Oreophyne darewskyi. They are typically found at higher, moister altitudes.

Mammals: Mammals include the Timor deer (Cervus timorensis), the main prey of the Komodo dragon, horses (Equus sp.), water buffalo (Bubalus bubalis), wild boar (Sus scrofa vittatus), long-tailed macaques (Macaca fascicularis), palm civets (Paradoxurus hermaphroditus lehmanni), the endemic Rinca rat (Rattus rintjanus), and fruit bats. One can also find goats, dogs and domestic cats.

Birds: One of the main bird species is the orange-footed scrub fowl (Megapodius reinwardti), a ground dwelling bird. In areas of savanna, 27 species were observed. Geopelia striata and Streptopelia chinensis were the most common species. In mixed deciduous habitat, 28 bird species were observed, and Philemon buceroides, Ducula aenea, and Zosterops chloris were the most common.

MARINE PHYSICAL ENVIRONMENT :

The marine area constitutes 67% of the Park. The open waters in the Park are between 100 and 200 m deep. The straits between Rinca and Flores and between Padar and Rinca, are relatively shallow (30 to 70 m deep), with strong tidal currents. The combination of strong currents, coral reefs and islets make navigation around the islands in Komodo National Park difficult and dangerous. Sheltered deep anchorage is available at the bay of Loh Liang on Komodo’s east coast, the South East coast of Padar, and the bays of Loh Kima and Loh Dasami on Rinca.

In the North of the Park water temperature ranges between 25 – 29°C. In the middle, the temperature ranges between 24 and 28°C. The temperatures are lowest in the South, ranging from 22 – 28°C. Water salinity is about 34 ppt and the water is quite clear, although the waters closer to the islands are relatively more turbid.

MARINE ECOSYSTEMS :

Indonesia is the only equatorial region in the world where there is an exchange of marine flora and fauna between the Indian and Pacific oceans. Passages in Nusa Tenggara (formerly the Lesser Sunda Islands) between the Sunda and Sahul shelves allow movement between the Pacific and Indian oceans. The three main ecosystems in Komodo National Park are seagrass beds, coral reefs, and mangrove forests. The Park is probably a regular cetacean migration route.

MARINE FLORA :

The three major coastal marine plants are algae, seagrasses and mangrove trees. Algae are primitive plants, which do not have true roots, leaves or stems. An important reef-building algae is the red coralline algae, which actually secretes a hard limestone skeleton that can encrust and cement dead coral together. Seagrasses are modern plants that produce flowers, fruits and seeds for reproduction. As their name suggests, they generally look like large blades of grass growing underwater in sand near the shore. Thallasia sp. and Zastera spp. are the common species found in the Park. Mangroves trees can live in salty soil or water, and are found throughout the Park. An assessment of mangrove resources identified at least 19 species of true mangroves and several more species of mangrove associates within the Park's borders.

MARINE FAUNA :

Komodo National Park includes one of the world's richest marine environments. It consists of forams, cnidaria (includes over 260 species of reef building coral), sponges (70 species), ascidians, marine worms, mollusks, echinoderms, crustaceans, cartilaginous and bony fishes (over 1,000 species), marine reptiles, and marine mammals (dolphins, whales, and dugongs). Some notable species with high commercial value include sea cucumbers (Holothuria), Napoleon wrasse (Cheilinus undulatus), and groupers.

KOMODO DRAGON – VARANUS KOMODOENSIS

1. Basic Facts.
The first encounter and written by JKH VAN STEYN in 1911. Scientific identification of VARANUS KOMODOENSIS by P.A OUWENS in 1912.
When frightened, Komodo dragons can run up to 18 km / h for short distances. Usually they run at a slower pace of 8 – 10 km / h. Large dragons usually weigh up to 90 kg ( 198 pounds ) The largest Komodo dragon ever measured weighed 195.9 kilograms ( 365 pounds ) but this might be because its belly was of food. It is too difficult to tell difference between male and female dragons without checking for a special scale pattern that males have on their underside at the base of their tale However , one way to tell the difference in fully grown animals is that very large dragons are usually male.
The largest recorded Komodo dragon length is 3.13 meters ( 10 feet 2 inches ).Female Komodo dragons rarely grow over 2.5 meters ( 7 feet 6 inches ) in length.
Komodo dragons remain large because there are no other large predators to compete with. Scientists believe that komodo dragons can live up to 50 years, maybe longer. Komodo dragons can swim at lest 500 meters. However, they become sluggish in the water because the water cools their body temperature down. The young dragons spend most of their time on the trees but dragons over 1.5 meters long can not climb well .Dragons over 2 meters long are too heavy to climb the trees.
Komodo dragon are cold – blooded, they are constantly regulating their body temperature. In the early morning, they must warm – up their body in the sun. If their body temperature drops too low, the food in their stomach can rot and cause regurgitation or even death. However, Komodo dragon’s body temperature must not exceed 42 degrees Celsius ( 108 degrees Fahrenheit ).When it is too hot, they have to rest and seek shade to prevent their body from over – heating. Dragons are most active from 6 to 10 am in the morning and again from 3 to 5pm in the afternoon. During the rainy season, Komodo dragons stay in the burrows if they are too cold. Komodo dragons sleep at night because it is usually too cool for them to be active. They will sleep where they will not loose to much heat. They sleep at the edge of the savanna and monsoon forest, or in burrows. The average sleeping burrow is only 75cm to 1.25m in length. The Komodo dragons will use the burrows of rodents. Palm civets, wild boar, porcupine ( on Flores ) and those made by other Komodo dragons. Nesting burrows, on the other hand, are about two meters long.
2. Population and Habitat.
Komodo dragons are only found in Komodo, Rinca, Gilli Motang and a small part of northern and western Flores. They are recently extinct in Padar. They are not exist any where else on earth.
Komodo dragons need protection as they are considered endangered due to their extremely limited range. Komodo dragons are thought to have live over a larger area but may have been forced out of other island due to human population pressures. As well, the formations of the islands are always changing over time. May be it is difficult for them to cross the water now because too strong currents and wider water crossing.
Dragons can be found almost everywhere on Komodo and Rinca. They can be found in the monsoon forest, in the savanna, on the beach, on the mangrove swamps and in burrows. Sometimes the younger ones are found in the trees. The Komodo dragon’s range is mostly from sea level of 450m above sea level. Komodo dragons surveys taken in the year 2003 account for 1.300 komodo dragons in Komodo island, and 1.200 Komodo dragons in Rinca. This figure is lower then surveys made in prior years, which recorded population ranging from 1.062 – 1.772 dragons in Komodo and 1.110 – 1.344 in Rinca. This recent decline in population seems to be in the young and juvenile categories. However, differences may be due to the method of survey than an actual decline in population.
For every female, there are about three males. Perhaps a small percentage of females is a natural response to keep the Komodo dragon population from growing too quickly.
3.Origins.
Komodo dragons are one of the oldest living lizards. Direct ancestors of the Komodo dragon ( Varanidae family ) lived 50 million years ago. Komodo dragons may have descended from a larger lizard from Java or from Australia ( Megalania prisca ) , which existed 30.000 years ago.
Komodo dragons could be from Asia or Australia.On theory is that dragons island – hopped from Java to Komodo. Another theory is that they swam from Australia to Timor until they reached Flores. About 18 .000 years ago the sea level was approximately 85 meters lower then it is to day. Because the shallower shelves of the island were exposed as dry land, the Komodo dragons might have been able to easily their way from Flores to Rinca and Komodo island.
4. Reproduction.
Female Komodo dragons start mating when they are seven years old and male dragons start mating when they are eight years old. The mating season of the Komodo dragons is normally from July to August although mating behaviors have been observed during have been observed during other months as well, but generally during the dry season. Female komodo dragons lay up 15 to 30 eggs at a time. The average number of eggs is about 18 per clutch per year .The female often lay their eggs in a burrow Sometimes they use the mound of the scrub fowl. Female dragons dig several false funnels so that predators can’t find the eggs easily. The Komodo dragons eggs incubate for eight to nine months, the eggs usually hatch in March or April. With it is size of Komodo dragon eggs is 8,6 cm long, with a diameter of 5,9 cm and weight of 105 grams. The eggs are about the size of swan eggs.The shells are soft and leathery.
Komodo dragons use their tongue to detect scents and smells. And also the tongue to pick up chemical particles in the air and ground, then put them in their Jacobson’s organs located on the roof of their mouth. Jacobson’s organs are a kind of “Super nose”. Dragons can detect scents up to five kilometers away. However, they can smell up to 11 km away depending on the direction of the wind.
5. Hunting and feeding.
Komodo dragons are carnivorous and not very particular about their meat .The adults mainly prey on deer and wild boar and sometimes other Komodo dragons. If they can, they will hunt buffalo, palm civets, rats, and birds. They will also eat domestic animals like dogs, chickens, and goats. Occasionally they will eat snakes, sea turtle eggs and monkeys. Komodo dragons prefer to eat animals which are already dead (carrion ). Also the dragons usually attack sleeping animals or wait in ambush.
If they can’t kill prey immediately they will try to bite the animal on the leg or on the throat. Later, they will follow and wait for the animal to weaken and die before they eat it.
Komodo dragon’s saliva is very high septic. There are over 60 types of bacteria in the dragon’s saliva and at least one of them can cause septicemia. After being bitten, they prey can take a day to a couple of weeks to die from blood – poisoning. They have small, sharp, curved teeth for grasping and ripping. A komodo dragon can eat up to 80% of its body weight at one time. For example, researchers saw a 42 kg dragon eat a 30 kg in 17 minutes. Dragons eat almost everything, leaving behind only 8 – 13% of the carcass. They can eat whenever there is opportunity. If there is no prey, they will scavenge. They can go without eating for several weeks. Dragons usually eat or kill about once a month. The droppings of the Komodo dragon are white due to the presence of uric acid. All reptiles and birds have this in their droppings as well. Also the droppings has not contains of water. The body of dragons will try to conserve water in their body instead, especially during the dry season when water is scarce. Komodo dragons need to drink water, but often. They drink a lot when it is available. They drink very little in the dry season from April to November. Dragons can get 70% of their water requirement from their prey.
6. People and Dragons.
Komodo dragons have no natural predators but deer poachers are their biggest threat. Timor deer an essential part of the dragon’s died and the prey / predator balance is critical for the Komodo dragon to survive. At least eight people are thought to have been attacked by dragons, and one tourist is thought to have been eaten by dragons in the 1970’s.The komodo dragons are not longer fed so that they can resume their natural activities. By feeding the dragons, they where relying too heavily on humans for their food. Komodo dragons are opportunistic scavengers. They come to the ranger station because of the smell of food .They are still wild animals and are not tame. Their behavior is unpredictable.
The best thing to do is to get out the way. If you run, the dragon may follow. Climbing the tree is an option if the pursuing dragons is too large to climb the tree itself. Komodo National Park requires that all visitors be accompanied by a ranger for safety reasons. The rangers have experience in dealing with dragons and carry a stick to stop the dragons from. The people of komodo island revere the Komodo dragons as a mystical ancestor and treat the dragons with respect.

SUMBA ISLAND

Sumba, formerly known as the Sandalwood Island, is known foe its horses and Sumba clothe. Sandalwood was the only known cure for many diseases until penicillin was invented. The Sumbanese traded with the Chinese until the 16th century, after which the Arabs became the most important trading partner until the early 20th century. The island is famous for its arts and handicrafts, particularly the textile "ikat" weaving. Sumba, however, is not for everyone. Neither the food nor accommodations are up to international standards. But if we are willing to make a little effort we can see an authentic, ancient culture with none of the layers of Hinduism or Islam mostly found elsewhere in the country.

The island has a small population and a dry tropical climate. In total Sumba have more hours of sunshine than any other place in Indonesia. The land resembles Southern Africa or Australia, with scattered small villages and herds of cattle and buffalo Sumba is off the beaten track. Transport system and roads are infrequently used. Most hotels in main towns are simple, only catering for the adventurous. However, CNN etc. are available for those wishing to stay in touch with the outside world. Beaches are long and clean. Water is clear and abundant in fish, and there is great surf.

The island is roughly oval in shape. The greatest concentration of those who worship sprits (ancestral and those of the land) is found in West Sumba where two-thirds of the population holds on their traditional belief. It is here where incredible rituals take place, the "pasola" where hundreds of horsemen fling spears at each other. The government allows the ritual to take place, but the spears must be blunt. Although some exist in East Sumba, it is in West Sumba that one can find a greater number of huge megalithic tombs and traditional thatched and peaked huts raise on stilts.

Many traditional activities, all with a part paying homage to the spirits, take place in the month of July through October. These include the building of "adapt" houses and burials when sometimes hundreds of pigs, water buffaloes, horses, and dogs are sacrificed. Other ceremonies include the "pajura" or traditional boxing, the festivals for lunar New Year in October and November, and August 17, Independence Day, horse races and ritual dances.\

History Sumba Island

According to an old myth the first humans came down to Sumba on a ladder from heaven and settled on Tanjung Sasar on the north side of the island. Another myth says that Umbu Walu Sasar, one of the two Sumbanese ancestors, was driven away from Java and brought to Sumba by the gods. He also settled on Tanjung Sasar. The other ancestor, Umbu Walu Mandoko, came by boat and settled on the east side. The fact is that the people here are a mix of Malay and Melanese, while the language is related to eastern Sumbawa, western Flores and Sawu. The death and burial ceremonies have significant similarities with Tana Toraja on Sulawesi. Sumba was under control of the mighty Majapahit dynasty from Java in the 14th century. After Majapahit had fall, the island was ruled from Bima on Sumbawa and later Gowa on south Sulawesi. The society was however most influenced by the internal wars, even if there still was mutual economic dependency between the rival kingdoms. Horses, timber, betel nuts, rice, fruit and ikat were heavily traded between the various districts. The Dutch did not find any commercial possibilities here at first and paid little attention to Sumba before they started export of sandalwood in the 18th century. Before the discovery of penicillin sandalwood was the only known cure for venereal diseases, and was an expensive commodity that was exported to Europe, China and Arabic countries in large quantities. The trade was constantly interrupted by internal wars, and in 1906 the Dutch invaded Sumba and placed it under direct military rule. A civilian administration was set up in 1913 where the Dutch ruled through the reigning Sumbanese nobility. The native rulers were not accepted by Indonesia when the republic took control of the island in 1950, but many became government officials and in that way they and their families still have much influence.

West Sumba

The western part of Sumba is green and fertile in the wet season. It has a mixed population with two different languages; many still live in their traditional thatched huts. While East Sumba attracts tourists due to it's lovely ikat-textiles, West Sumba can offer more exotic traditions with unique houses, ceremonies and tombs. A traditional village typically consists of two rows of tall houses, with a square between. In the middle of the square there is a flat stone with another flat stone at the top of it. Here offerings are made to the spiritual forces that protect the city (marapu). Similar stones can be found in the fields where offerings are made in relation to planting and harvesting. On the open square there is often stone slab tombs of important ancestors. In former days the heads of killed enemies would be hung in a dead tree in the village square, called 'andung'. It is common today for tourists to visit some of these villages, preferably with a local guide to avoid any offending behavior. We will often be asked to donate a small amount of money; another custom is to offer betel nuts. It is a big offence to say no if we are offered a betel nut, in former days this was a declaration of war. Just accept it and put it away if we don't lik

East Sumba

East Sumba has a different climate, it is more dry and mountainous, and the people here belong to one single ethnical group with one common language. Waingapu, the capital, is located here and is a hub for transport to and from the island. There are some facilities here, but the main attractions are located west and southeast on the island. Some traditional villages are located southeast of Waingapu and can be visited on a daytrip from there.

This region is better known for its "ikat" weaving. Traditionally only members of the highest clans and their personal attendants only used for special ceremonies and ikat. During important funerals the corpse was dressed in the finest textiles to make a good appearance in the afterlife, and piles of extra textiles was often sent with the dead as well. Later the Dutch started to export ikat to Europe and Java, where it quickly became very popular. Other products from here are horses and cattle. Horses are still used for transport on Sumba and are a symbol of high status; the large grass fields in the interior of the island are well suited for horse rising.

The island is famous for its megalithic tombs and war rituals. A well-known ritual is 'pasola' were hundreds of men on horses throw spears at each other. The tips of the spears are cut off, but serious accidents, even deaths, occur frequently. The season to experience this festival is in February to March, it will take place in four different districts to satisfy the gods and bring a good harvest. The exact date and time is depending on the arrival of the small 'Nyale' fish to the coast. The priests will study the fish and from it's behavior predict the outcome of the harvest. When this is done the Pasola festival can begin, the fights will usually start at the beach and then move further inland. Although perhaps 40% of the population of East Sumba follows the 'Merapu' religion as their brothers in the out ward manifestations are not nearly as spectacular of frequent.

Near Waingapu, Kuta Beach is a good place to relax, and further down coast, near Baing (125 km from Waingapu), there is great surfing at Kalala Beach. The waves are best from December to May. Traditional hand-woven cloth, one of the most outstanding traditional handicrafts, besides handicrafts of "lontar" leaves and sandalwood carvings, the sasando - the traditional musical instruments - both in miniature or actual size.

WEST TIMOR

West Timor is the principal island in terms of population where the capital of the province, Kupang, is located. Kupang is now being developed to be the gate- way to Nusa Tenggara. There are direct flights from /to Darwin-Australia. West Timor is rich in various cultures, beautiful sceneries, and a wonderful nature. Made up of dry, rocky land, isolated communities, rolling cattle land, a variety of styles of architecture, Timor is basically something that possesses its own original characteristics.

West Timor is a political region that comprises the western half of Tomir Island with the exception of Oecussi-Ambeno district (which is politically part of East Timor) and forms a part of Indonesia province of East Nusa Tenggara, (NTT or Nusa TenggaraTimur). West Timor's capital and chief port is Kupang. The land area of West Timor is 15,850 km. During the colonial period it was known as Dutch Timor and was a centre of Dutch loyalists during the Indonesian War of Independence (1945-1949).

Rote Island, the southernmost island of Indonesia, is just to the southwest of West Timor. Three native languages belonging of Carbonic Stock of the Austronesian group of languages are spoken in West Timor, the others in East Timor. These languages are Ndaonese, Rotinese, and Helong.

History

European colonization of Timor started in the 16th century. Although Portuguese claimed the island of Timor in 1520, the Dutch (in Dutch East India Company) settled West Timor in 1640, forcing the Portuguese out to East Timor. The subsequent collapse of the company meant that in 1799 the area returned to official Dutch rule. Finally, in 1914 a treaty between Holland and Portugal that was originally signed in 1859 and modified in 1893 finalized border between East and West Timor.

Japan conquered the island as part of World War II in early 1942. August 17, 1945 saw Indonesian Independence declared, just three days after the Japanese surrender. The Dutch returned but faced a war with republican guerrillas, the eventual outcome of which was the proclamation of Republic of Indonesia in 1950, which made West Timor a part of East Nusa Tenggara.

Demographics

West Timor has approximately 1.6 million inhabitants. The population is mostly of Malay, Papuan or Polynesian extraction, with a tiny ethnic Chinese group. About half of the population belongs to Atoni ethnicity. West Timor's main religions are Catholic (56%), Protestant (35%) and Muslim (8%).

ROTE ISLAND

Rote Island is a part of Kupang Regency and is the southernmost island of Indonesia. It is located in the west coast of Kupang. This exotic island can be reached only in four hours. From Kupang by inter-island ferry to dive and tour this untouched beautifully rugged land. Spectacular walls and caverns mirror the hills, valleys, and escarpments underwater. The marine life is so varied and profuse that is hard to believe from Fire-fish to Mantas. The architecture of Rote is unique, as is their exquisite ikat weaving. See the people is their traditional lifestyle, which has remained unchanged for centuries.

Rote has many historical relies including fine antique Chinese porcelains, as well as ancient arts and traditions. Many prominent Indonesia nationalist leaders were born here. A popular music instrument Sasando, which is made of palm leaves. According to legend, this island got its name accidentally when a lost Portuguese sailor arrived and asked a farmer where he was. The surprised farmer, who could not speaking Portuguese, introduced himself, "Rote".

Rote just off the southern tip of Timor Island consists of rolling hills, terraced plantations, and acacia palm, savanna and some forests.

The rotinese depend, like the Savunese, on lontar palm for basic survival, but also as the supplement their income with fishing and jewelry making.

Before Indonesia's Independence, Rote, boasted the highest density of kingdom in the East Indies. Even today the island, the Rotenese and their kingdoms are divided, following ancient tradition, into two domains, one known as Sunrise and one as Sunset. A “male” Lord, a “female” Lord and several advisers, representing the clans within that domain, rules the domain. Each clan that possesses ceremonial rights performs it's own rituals during the annual HUS celebration, a traditional New Year festival. At the HUS, Rotenese men wearing their unique hats make offerings to the clan ancestors and the women dance accompanied by sasando, The Rotenese guitar.

Rote is particularly well know for its surfing, each year surfers flock to Namberala to ride the near perfect tubes formed by the shallow reefs and off-shore winds. Accommodation in Namberala includes a traditional beachfront bungalow resort and several home stays. The beach itself is one of the best examples of a palm fringed pure white sandy beach to be found anywhere. Diving in the area is also exceptional due to the large numbers of Manta and Dugong seen there. A boat trip to nearby Dana or Ndao Islands is also recommended.

ALOR AND LEMBATA ISLAND

Alor and Lembata Islands are the least visited and are therefore the most unspoiled regions of East Nusa Tenggara (NTT). Trek to the rim of Pantar volcano, visit the traditional whaling village on Lembata or dive the straits of Alor at a dive destination rated by all to be amongst the best in the world.

Alor Island regency is the least visited and therefore the most unspoiled region of Nusa Tenggara Timur (NTT). Trek to the rim of a volcano on Pantar or dive the straits of Alor and Pantar in a dive destination rated by all to be amongst the best in the world. Ponder on the existence of the Moko drums, which are not found in large numbers anywhere else in Indonesia and can be traced back to the Dongson period in Vietnam around 350 BC and you start to realize that Alor is truly a land lost in time.

Alor diving is known as the best in the world With its smoldering Volcanoes reaching down into crystal clear waters fringed with pristine coral reefs, coconut fringed pure white sandy beaches and traditional villages built half way up mountains, the scenery is as spectacular above as it is below the waterline. Alor Island is so mountainous that it is almost impossible to pass from one side to the other and many of the villages on the island itself can only transport themselves via small wooden ferries. The eight distinct dialects and more than 50 sub-dialects spoken today, testifies to the diversity on Alor.

Alor traditional culture has been influenced over the ages by the Indian, Chinese and Javanese traders as well as by the Islamic and Christian religions. This can be seen in the silk thread woven into the original weavings and the mix of Mosques and Christian churches dotted throughout the Island. The traditional dances, Ikat weavings motifs and the varies architectural style greatly from area to area. With more than a dozen traditional villages within one hours drive from the capital Kalabahi - Alor is a cultural tourists heaven.

Lembata Island is known throughout the world as the home of traditional whaling but what is not known is that the people of this Island are especially rich in cultural tradition. The beautiful rich Ikat weavings are entirely made from homegrown cotton, spun and dyed by the weaver. These cloths are still important as they are exchanged during marriage for Ivory tusks between the two families. The scenery throughout the Island is breathtaking, from the ever-imposing "Ile Ape" volcano of the palm fringed bays to the colorful bustling local markets - beauty and excitement are everywhere.

Lamalera village located on the southern tip of Lembata Island is the home of a traditional whale hunting community. Here, Sperm Whales have been hunted for centuries using all hand made equipment; their spears, rope and boats are all made in the village. The boats are without motors and the harpooner must jump from the boat to implant his harpoon in to the whale to ensure success. All parts of the whale are either consumed or traded with other Islanders for corn or other food. While whale hunting is not generally condoned by modern societies, when consider the ancestral links, the primitive equipment used and the importance to the people of Lamalera it is understandable that this traditional hunting has been sanctioned by the United Nations.

SAVU ISLAND

Savu is dry for large parts of the year, due to hot winds blowing from the Australian continent. Most rain falls during the

months from November to March. Between 82% & 94% of all rainfalls during the west monsoon, with little or no rain falling for the months of August to October. The mean annual rainfall for Savu Island is 1019 mm. During the dry season, the islands' streams dry up, so the islanders depend on wells for their water supply. The land is covered for the most part by grassland and palms. Coral reef and sandy beaches fringe the three islands.

Namata

Namata is located in Western Savu. Namata is a traditional village where the ritual ceremonies are frequently held. There are megalithic stones and traditional houses. It is located in the Rai Lolo village, 3 km from the capital city of Heb'a (Seba) in western Savu district. There is a stone carving of a four mast tall ship. Though the writing beneath has faded, villagers say the Portuguese drew it in 1684.

RAI JUA ISLAND

* Kolo Uju (Udju) is a village where ritual ceremonies are held. It is located in Lede Unu of Rai Jua District.

* Maja well is located in Lede Unu village of Rai Jua district. It is located about 5 km from the subdistrict capital. The well is an archeological remnant of Majapahit Kingdom.

* Rai Jua Beach is located I km from the main town. It is a white sandy beach for snorkeling and swimming.

DANA ISLAND

Dana is also called Nieuw Eiland and Hokki, the latter not known to the local people. Dana is a small, uninhabited island, situated thirty kilometers Southwest of Rai Jua. The rocky, south side of the island is exposed to deep ocean swells originating in the Southern Ocean, five thousands kilometers away. Sheep and goats are to be seen on the island. However, Savu and Rai Jua people do not go to Dana, except for the annual ritual ceremony. According to Savunese tradition, no one is allowed to visit Dana for any other purpose.

Savunese believe that when they die, their spirit reside on Dana. They also believe that it is important to respect the space of others in order to maintain harmony in life. Since Dana is considered to be the space for the spirit of their love ones who passed away, it is considered disrespectful for westerners to visit the island. However, cruise ships and surf charters regularly visit Dana, without consultation with the Rai Jua elders, who are responsible for preserving the tradition.

WEST NUSA TENGGARA

The History

West Nusa Tenggara Province named Sunda Kecil before 1951, and become East Indonesia State part. Based on the Lombok government constitution, East Indonesia Presidents decision on 9 May 1949 No.5/Prv/49, Lombok did not contain of a municipality but is a area that governed by Dutch Government and in 1946, 1949 had formed Neo Municipality or an area that done its autonomous based Zelf Bestuur Rgelen (ABR) in 1938. The Swatantra I area and Swatantra II area had formed since 14 August 1958. The government has developed when it formed based on the constitution number 1 in 1957 about the main point of region government. Then the formed of Swatantra area in West Nusa Tenggara had done step by step start from 1959 until 1961.

The Wallace Line, named after 19th century naturalist, Alfred Russell Wallace, marks a point of transition between the flora and fauna of Western and Eastern Indonesia and acts as the Western boundary of West Nusa Tenggara, which includes Lombok Island and Sumbawa. Lombok is noticeably different to its close neighbor, Bali. The northern part of the island is mountainous and lush with tall trees and shrubs. The South on the other hand is arid and covered by savannas. Large Asian mammals are absents and replaced instead by large numbers of marsupials, lizards, cockatoos and parrots. The difference becomes more pronounced as one moves further east where dry seasons are more prolonged and the land is dry and bush-like, and so in many areas corn and sago are the staple food, instead of rice. At first Islam time come to these islands in the 16th century, four Hindu Kingdoms co-existed in apparent peace what is now called West Nusa Tenggara and is still the religion embraced by those in the west of Lombok, which are primarily Balinese. Lombok experienced strong Balinese influences in the past, but has still retained a unique identifies. The indigenous people of Lombok, the Sasaks, are predominantly Moslem and have a strong, distinguished tradition, as do the people of neighboring Sumbawa. Soft white sand, virgin beaches are typical in Lombok, where the motto is 'You can see Bali in Lombok, but not Lombok in Bali'. Famous for its 'tenun ikat' hand-woven textiles, the island has exceptional charm and its relatively undiscovered, except for Senggigi City, which becoming a major resort area. Regulars shuttle flights from Bali and Surabaya as well as ferries provide excellent transportation links within the islands of the province as well as with the rest of the country.

The two largest islands in West Nusa Tenggara province are Lombok in the west and the larger Sumbawa Island in the east. Mataram, on Lombok, is the capital and largest city of the province. The province is administratively divided into six regencies and one municipality, Mataram. The Sasak ethnic group mainly inhabits Lombok, with a minority Balinese population then, Sumbawa and Bima ethnic groups inhabit Sumbawa. Each of these groups has a local language associated with it as well. The population of the province is 3.821.134; 71 percent of the population lives in Lombok.

Geographically

Geographically, West Nusa Tenggara Province is located 115'45 - 119°10 east Longitudes 8°5 - 9°5 south latitudes. Its area boundaries is:

North Side: Java Sea

South side: Hindia Ocean

East side: Sepadan Strait

West side: Lombok Strai

Wide Area

The wide area of West Nusa Tenggara is 49.32,19 Km2 that contains of 20.153,07 Km2 land and 29.159,04 Km2 of sea. The two big islands is Lombok Island with its wide area about 4.738,70 Km2 (23,51%) and Sumbawa Island with 15.414,37 Km' (76,49%) wide area. Beside that, it also surrounded by thousands small islands, such as Gili Air, Gili Meno, Gili Trawangan, Gili Gede, Gili Nanggu, Gili Tangkong, Moyo Island, Bungin Island, Satonda Island, Kaung Island, and Panjang Island.

Government Administrative

Administratively, the capital of West Nusa Tenggara is Mataram city and contains of 7 regencies and 2 cities. The four regencies/cities are located in Lombok Island and 5 regencies/cities state in Sumbawa Island.

SUMBAWA BESAR REGENCY

Sumbawa is a large island to the east of Bali and Lombok. It is part of West Nusa Tenggara province along with Lombok. There are hundreds of small islands in this area in addition to the two major islands. Sumbawa really belongs more to Eastern Indonesia than to the western part of the archipelago. The effects of Hindu and Buddhist cultures are minimal in Sumbawa (although there is a Balinese presence along the northern coastal area), and although the island is predominantly Muslim, the role of traditional culture is still very strong.

The slogan of Sumbawa Regency is: "B E S A R" which stands for BERSIH, ELOK, SEHAT, AMAN DAN, RAPI, (Clean, Beautiful, Healthy, Safe, and Proper). The regional government's official website notes that Sumbawa still lacks sufficient medical facilities to support public health, in particular a lack of doctors and other health professionals. A public health center was recently opened in Sekongkang, but adequate treatment for a serious illness or accident requires a trip to Sumbawa Besar or Mataram, both of which require a journey of at least four hours minimum.

The regional government has a six-year plan for improving the lives of the island's residents. This plan includes: Health (improving health service quality including equipment and facilities), Education, Social Welfare (including reaching gender equality), Agriculture (optimizing resources for improving agricultural products), Industry, Trade and Cooperation (developing an economic system that focuses on the fair market mechanism), Regional Finance and Capital Investment, Manpower and Demography, Public Works and Communication (improving transport and the use of water resources), Agrarian Matter and Landscape, Living Environment and Natural Resource (rehabilitating and conserving natural resources), Tourism, Art and Culture (developing tourism based on natural and cultural tours, as well as teaching traditional art and culture), Religious Life Teaching (improving religious life through teaching and providing praying facilities and by making the role of religious institutions and social organizations to be teaching about living in harmony with other religious people), Law and Society's Orderliness (creating safe conditions based on the supremacy of the law and human rights); Politic and the Efficiency of Apparatus (improving the quality of public service through responsibility and the quality of government institutions); Science and Technology (the application of right and useful technology).

In many respects Sumbawa can be considered remote. To get to Sumbawa from Bali most people take the ferry from Bali to Lombok, travel overland to the eastern seaport in Lombok and then take another ferry to Sumbawa, ending up in Poto Tano. From there transportation is somewhat problematic. There are buses that will take us on to Sumbawa Besar, the capital, or down the coast road to the south, If traveling from Lombok, it is best to board a bus there that will take us to our final destination in Sumbawa. It is also possible to fly into Sumbawa Besar city on the western side of the island, and Bima on the eastern side of the island. A small airline called Tropical Air existed for a short while which flew directly to Sekongkan where the surfing spots of Yoyo and Scar Reef are located.

Sumbawa is known for its great waves and sandy white beaches. Due to the somewhat trying process of getting there and the scarcity of cheap tourist facilities, the island is not visited much by non-surfing tourists which is unfortunate as the parts of the island that have seen are quite beautiful. During the dry season (April to November) a lot of dust is blown up and around. Strong winds blow in off the ocean, and the lush green hills, mountains and valleys turn a dusty brown. When the rainy season begins an amazing transformation takes place and the island becomes a lush jungle once again.

The pace of life on Sumbawa is definitely slower than that in Bali. As most of the island is still developing, there is a very rural feel to just about everywhere that you go, including Sumbawa Besar, the capital of the western side of the island. The mining company, New Mont, has a gold and copper mine down in the southwestern corner of the island around the villages of Sekongkang, Maluk and Benete. Their presence has speeded up the development process on this side of the island.

West Sumbawa is mostly made up of hollow lefts that are best accessed by boat charter. The charters will pull up and anchor at the best breaks for easy access to the surf. This area has many steep cliffs that offer scenic backdrops to the epic surf. The Lake area can be accessed by charter, as well as by ferry and overland transfers, or flights from Bali. Here there some hotels and surf camps located right in front of the main breaks of Lackey Peak and Lackey Pipe, with other waves within walking distance. Most waves are a long paddle or walk across the reef depending on the tide, reef booties are recommended.

DOMPU REGENCY

Dompu is the capital city of Central Sumbawa. It is situated on the main road between the district of Sumbawa and Bima district.

Tourism Objects in Dompu

* Mada Prama

It is located about 4 km from Dompu. Natural spring water for swimming and bathing set in lush tropical forest surrounding.

* Dermaga Kempo Beach

It is located in Saleh Bay. It is a port that connects Dompu to Nisa Pudu and Nisa Rate Islands.

* Nisa Pudu and Nisa Rate Islands

Nisa Pudu and Nisa Rate Islands have beautiful panorama. People can enjoy the sun from either island. They are located 45 km from Dompu and they can be reached by public transportation.

* Hodo Beach

Hodo Beach is about 45 km from Dompu. Located on Salch beach, the beach is an excellent stop over before ascending Mount Rinjani. Fresh water is available.

* Calabay

It is about 100 km from Dompu. It has a port called "Tiga Bangun", a port through which timber are exported.

* Mount Tambora

Mount Tambora is about 100 km from Dompu. It is the highest mountain in Sumbawa. Its eruption in 1815 was one of the most destructive and powerful volcanic explosions in human history, caused a huge catastrophic all over the island. The explosion could be heard as far as Ternate (1400 km), and tremors were felt in Surabaya (800 km). The volcanic dust, ejected into stratosphere acted as a giant filter, creating a spectacular orange sunsets around the world, the eject which circled the world caused temperature to drop almost 2 F degrees below normal for the whole year, resulting in the famous 'year without summer' of 1816._Nowadays, the vicinity of this mountain has become a game and conversation area. Mount Tambora has a dense forest and various kinds of wood. There is a vast meadow, which extends on the slope of the mountain. The hunting area that faces the sea makes the panorama more beautiful. The port here connects to Kempo district.

* Doro Bata

It is about 1 km from Dompu. Here can be found the remains of the Dompu palace, which was covered with volcanic dust during Mount Tambora's explotion in 1815.

* Woja Beach

Woja Beach is located in the western part of Cempi Bay. The folktales that describe the origin of Dompu are very famous. The beach has white sand and a beautiful panorama. It is an interesting place.

* Lapadi

Lapadi is located about 5 km South of Dompu. Lapadi is an area for traditional horse race with little jockeys - children of 8 years of age. The traditional horse race is exclusive. There is also a livestock "Koteka" (cattle breeding and sheep herding).

* Hu'u Beach

This beach location is about 40 km from Dompu and about 100 km from Bima airport. The largest stretch of beach in the West Nusa Tenggara. Its long and uncompromising curling waves, which have 8 levels gives the area. It has reputation as one of the hottest spots for surfing in Indonesia.

* Nangga Doro

It is about 45 km from Dompu. Nangga Doro has a mountainous resort with a very hot water spring. The temperature ranges between 80.5 to 81 degrees Celsius.

BIMA REGENCY

The former palace in the town of Bima is about all that is left of the Bima sultanate. The building is now being turned into a museum. Dara, a village two kilometers from the town of Bima in eastern Sumbawa, is believed to have been the seat of the ancient Bima kingdom.

WEST LOMBOK

West Lombok has both the lushness of Bali and the starkness of outback Australia. The 3,726m Rinjani volcano dominates the northwest of the island, while the southwest is arid and covered by savannas.

Famous for its basket ware, pottery and ikat hand woven textiles, Lombok has exceptional charm and is relatively undiscovered, except for Sengiggi and the Gili islands that have become popular tourism areas. We visit traditional villages and a local market in search for rare pieces of handicraft.

With the three 'big cities', the airport and the biggest concentration of hotels, West-Lombok is the best place to stay for the visitor. Here are the popular Gili Islands, as well as the most important Balinese temples, the center of Wetu Telu and mount Rinjani. The first route takes the tourist north, from Ampenan to Senggigi beach, Gili's, Wetu Telu center Bayan and surrounding, and eventually to the foothills of Moutn Rinjani. The second route goes south to quiet beaches and surfing locations of the southern peninsula.

Geographically

West Lombok is stay at 115°4´- 116° East Longitude and 8°12´ - 8°55´ South Latitudes with its boundaries is:

East Side: Central Lombok Regency and East Lombok Regency

West Side: Java Sea

South Side: Indonesia Ocean

CENTRAL LOMBOK

Central Lombok is the tourist heart of the Island. The area concludes the traditional villages which are visited in most daytrips - and which are not far from the 'big three' cities - and the southern coast: Kuta beach, where the festivities around the sea worms (nyale) takes place and Tanjung Aan, with beautiful beaches for surfing. Many travel agencies organize daytrips to these easy to reach destinations.

For those who are more than just a little bit interested in Sasak culture certainly has to bring a visit to Batu Kumbung village, northeast of Mataram. It's a traditional Sasak-village, 3.5 km north of the Narmada Water palace. Some women still weave traditional fabrics, decorated by the ikat-technique. There is a creek, which is said to be healing.

The village has a certain degree of fame because of it's music- and dance-groups. They perform in the region at weddings. The environment is very good for a walk. You can learn the local dances or learn to play an instrument. It's possible to spend the night in a home stay.

EAST LOMBOK

East Lombok is lush and less developed than the western part of the island, allowing you to peek into a rural part of Indonesia. Inhabited by the indigenous Sasak people, who keep their culture very much in live.

Geographically

East Lombok is West Nusa Tenggara Province part that spread along north to the south and geographically stay at 116° - 117° East longitudes, 8° - 9° South Latitudes with its boundaries:

North Side: Java Sea

South Side: Indonesia Ocean

East Side: Alas Straight

West Side: West Lombok and Central Lombok

Wide Area

The wide area of East Lombok regency is about 3.498.5 Km2 that consist of 1.605,5 Km2 land area and 1.654,15 Km2 sea areas that surround by coastal lines with 220 km length.

MATARAM

Mataram is the capital of Lombok. The town actually consists of four different towns Ampenan, Mataram, Cakranegara (Cakra) and Sweta. Ampenan has most of city sights, including Negeri Nusa Tenggara Barat museum, which gives a good overview of the culture of Lombok. Cakra is the best place for eating, sleeping and shopping. It also has the Water Palace, which is worth a visit and the largest temple of Lombok, Meru Purse. Mataram is the administrative centre and Sweta the transport connection of the whole island.

As a center of government administration, Mataram has many large, impressive public buildings and substantial houses. The city also has transportation and shopping facilities. The main square is used for art exhibitions, theater, dance, and wayang kulit (puppet theater) performances. In other parts of Mataram, there are a variety of old-style markets and neighborhoods featuring traditional craftwork like basketware and gold- and silver-threaded sarongs, or wraparound garments.

Ampenan port was once Lombok's main port, but it now relies mostly on fishing vessels. Cakranegara has significant Balinese and Chinese populations; the Chinese have been brought by the Dutch to provide cheap labor.

Although officially 3 separate towns, Ampenan, Mataram and Cakranegara actually run together, so it's difficult to tell where one stop and the next starts. There are banks, travel agents, mall, interesting shops, traditional markets and few things to see, but the town is not a major attraction.

Cakranegara

The main commercial centre of Lombok, has a thriving Chinese and Balinese Community. Most of the shops and restaurants are run and owned by Chinese.

Ampenan

Once was the main port of Lombok. Old buildings with mix population of Chinese, Arabs, and Melayu. You can find many local restaurants with great Chinese and Sasak foods.

MOYO ISLAND

Moyo Island, at the mouth of Saleh Bay, has a nature reserve with wild oxen, deer, wild boars and a great variety bird species. Visits are best made during the dry season from June through August. A few kilometers of the north coast of Sumbawa, the national park island of Moyo Island is probably the most rewarding destination in Sumbawa, surrounded by beautiful coral reefs and home to wild pig, monitor lizards, 21 species of bat, huge herds of native deer and hordes of crab-eating macaques. The best time to visit is in June and July, though the seas are clear and quiet from April. There are basic private rooms at the PHPA post at Tanjung Pasir on the south coast, where most boats from the mainland arrive. Renting a fishing boat from Tanjung Pasir and going fifteen minutes east to Stama reeft is very rewarding, with lots of sharks and turtles. There's nowhere on Moyo to rent masks and snorkels so bring our own; fins are advisable due to the strong currents.

To get to Moyo, take a bemo from beside Seketang Market in Sumbawa Besar to Air Bari , a small port settlement to the northeast. From Air Bari, we can charter a boat to Moyo.

National Parks of Indonesia: Moyo Island Reserve

Further along Nusa Tenggara to the east of Lombok lies Moyo Island and its Reserve. A fantastic place to visit and is a place of adventure.

Moyo Island is an attractive island three kilometres off the north coast of Sumbawa, lying to the east of Lombok. Two thirds of Pulau Moyo is actually a game reserve. The central plateau with its grassy savannah land and intermittent forested areas is ideal for Deer as well as the feral cattle released there.

The coastline has some beautiful beaches of fine coral sand and not the black volcanic sand like we find on a lot of islands in the archipelago. There are beautiful coral reefs, which make it excellent for scuba diving or just snorkeling. The reef at the southern end of the island is probably the best of all.

There are a few inhabitants on the island and this consists of around 21 villages concentrated in the northern end. From Moyo there are splendid views of Mount Tambora (2,821m) to the east, the highest mountain in Sumbawa, which erupted quite violently in 1815 but now has amazingly beautiful forests on its western slopes.

Tambora can be climbed from the side in three days and is well worth a visit. It has an enormous crater and within, a two-colored lake. From the crater there are also spectacular views over Saleh Bay and the rest of Sumbawa to the east, and to the west, Moyo Island to Lombok and Mount Rinjani.

The wildlife on the reserve has adapted to the fairly dry habitat and these include Deer, feral cattle, and numerous birds such as Orioles, Sunbirds, Coequals, Koels and Drongos. Of course there are several species of shore birds along the coastline.